среда, 9 января 2019 г.

Brocade cardigan and Hat in Silke Tweed












CARDIGAN:



Sizes: Small - Medium - Large
Finished measurements: 96-106-114 cm [37.75" - 41.75" - 44-7/8"]

Materials: DROPS SILKE-TWEED from Garnstudio
52% silk, 48% lambswool, 50 g./200 m./218 yards
300-300-350 g color no. 24, dark purple
50-100-100 g color no. 07, green
50-100-100 g color no. 25, lavender 
50- 50- 50 g color no. 16, yellow-green
50- 50- 50 g color no. 14, grass-green

Alternate yarns:
* DROPS COTTON VISCOSE, 54% Egyptian cotton, 46% viscose, 50 g/110 m./120 yards
* DROPS SAFRAN, 100% Egyptian cotton, 50 g./160 m./174 yards

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.



CARDIGAN:



Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]. 

Border: Knit 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette st, 1 purl row (= folding edge), 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette st.

Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette st.

Body: Knit the cardigan in the round after the folding edge and cut steeks for armholes and at the center front. Cast on 220-242-264 sts on smaller circular needles with dark purple, knit 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette st, purl 1 row (right side row for the folding edge - measure the work from here). Continue in stockinette st and on the 1st row, inc 5 sts at the center front (these sts are for the steek and are not knit into the pattern); join and continue in stockinette st. After 1 cm [3/8] begin Pattern. 
EDITOR’S NOTE: This is a very short cardigan. If you would like to lengthen it, I recommend either:
Knit a longer border before beginning the Pattern so that the Pattern will still match up on the sleeves; or 
knit a full repeat of the second rose first. 
When the work measures 3 cm [1.25"] change to larger circular needles. When the work measures 27-26-25 cm [10-5/8" - 10.25" - 9-7/8"] and keeping in Pattern, knit the next row as follows: 5 steek sts at the center front, 52-58-63 sts for the front, bind off 6-5-6 sts for armhole, 104-116-126 sts for the back, bind off 6-5-6 sts for armhole, 52-58-63 sts for the front. On the next row cast on 5 sts over the bound-off armhole sts at each side (these sts are for the steeks and are not knit into the pattern). Dec 1 st for armholes each side of the 5 armhole steek sts 2-4-6 times every row, then 4-8-10 times every other row = 199-199- 203 sts. When the work measures approx. 42 cm [16.5"] (approx. 1 rose of Pattern remains to be knit) bind off the center front 44 sts + 5 steek sts for the neck = 150-150-154 sts. Knit the rest of the work back and forth on the needles. 
When the work measures 49 cm [19.25"] (now 3 rows remain of the last rose) bind off the center back 40 sts for the neck. Bind off 2 sts at each back neck edge on the next row. After the Pattern is complete, knit 2 rows dark purple, the work measures approx. 50 cm [19.75"].

Sleeve: Cast on 66-66-66 sts on smaller double pointed needles with dark purple; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette st, purl 1 row (for the folding edge - measure the work from here). Continue in stockinette st. After 1 cm [3/8"] knit Pattern - when the work measures 3 cm [1.25"] change to larger double pointed needles. When the work measures 12-12-14 cm [4.75" - 4.75" - 5.5"] inc 1 st each side of marker 14-16-19 times: 
Size S: Alternately every 2 cm [0.75"] and every 3 cm [1.25"]
Size M: Every 2 cm [0.75"]
Size L: Alternately every 1 cm [3/8"] and every 2 cm [0.75"] 
= 94-98-104 sts - the increased sts are knit into the Pattern as you go along. When the work measures 47-45-45 cm [18.5" - 17.75" - 17.75"] put 3 sts each side of marker on a st holder, continuing knitting the work back and forth on the needles. At the same time put sts on a st holder at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4 times, then put 1 st at each side on a st holder until the work measures 54-55-56 cm [21.25" - 21-5/8" - 22"] - now put 3 sts 3 times on the st holder and then put all sts back on the needles. The work now measures 56-57-58 cm [22" - 22.5" - 22-7/8"]. Knit 2 cm [0.75"] reverse stockinette st back and forth on the needles with dark purple, increasing 10 sts evenly distributed on the first row, then bind off. 

Assembly: Sew a marker thread into the center of the steek sts at the center front and at each side. Sew two machine seams around the markers, 1st seam = ½ st from the marker thread, 2nd seam = ½ st from 1st seam. Cut up for armholes and at the center front. Sew the shoulder seams. 
Pick up approx. 90 to 100 sts along the left front on smaller needles with dark purple and knit Border, see instructions above. 
Repeat along the right front, but after 1 cm [3/8"] make 7 buttonholes evenly distributed on the edge - take into account that there will be a buttonhole on the neck band (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and inc 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row). Make the lowest buttonhole 1-1.5 cm [3/8" - 5/8"] from the bottom edge. Make corresponding buttonholes on the folding edge. After binding off, fold the edge over double against the wrong side and sew. 

Neck: Pick up approx. 140-150 sts around the neck and over the front edges on smaller needles with dark purple. Attach a marker at every corner of the neck at the front. Knit 2 cm [0.75"] stockinette st, decreasing 1 st at each side of the markers every other row. Make decreases as follows: Before the marker: K 2 tog, after the marker: slip 1, K 1, psso. Make 1 buttonhole in line with the buttonholes on the front edge after 2 rows. After 2 cm [0.75"] purl 1 row (right side row for the folding edge), knit 2 cm [0.75"] stockinette st, increasing 1 st at each side of the markers in correspondence with the decreased sts. Bind off. Fold the edge over double against the wrong side and sew. Fold the edges at the lower edge of the body and the sleeves over double against the wrong side and sew. Sew the sleeves to the body and fold the seam allowance on the sleeve over the cut edge on the body and sew. 
Sew on the buttons.




HAT IN SILKE-TWEED.



Size: Medium.

Materials: Garnstudio SILKE-TWEED from Garnstudio
52% silk, 48% lambswool, 50 g./200 m./218 yards
100 g color no. 24, dark purple
+ remnants of the following colors: 07 green, 25 lavender, 14 grass green

DROPS 3 mm [US 2] double pointed and short circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge. You will need two sets of both types of needles.
Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]. 

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Peak: Cast on 8 sts with dark purple on dp needles; join and distribute sts evenly on 4 needles (knit with the 5th). Knit in garter st, increasing as follows:
1st row: K into the back of each st
2nd row: inc 1 st in each st = 16 sts. 
3rd and all odd rows: garter st without increasing 
4th row: inc 1 st in every other st = 24 sts. 
6th row: inc 1 st in every 3rd st = 32 sts. 
8th row: inc 1 st in every 4th st = 40 sts. 
10th row: inc 1 st in every 5th st = 48 sts. 
12th row: inc 1 st in every 6th st = 56 sts. 
14th row: inc 1 st in every 7th st = 64 sts. 
Continue to inc in this fashion, putting 1 more st between increases, until the work measures 11 cm [4.25"] from the center (= approx. 136 sts on the needles) - put the work aside and knit a second peak. 

Hat: Lay the two peaks wrong side to wrong side. Put all sts on the same circular needles - sts should not be knit but only moved. Move the sts from each peak one at a time, alternating them on the needle: Put the first st from the bottom peak on the needle, then the first st from the top peak, then the 2nd st from the bottom peak and the 2nd st from the top peak, and so on until all sts have been moved = approx. 272 sts on the circular needles. 
Knit a rolling edge as follows: Knit stockinette st, but only with the sts from the bottom peak - thus only every other st, the sts from the top peak are continuously placed on another circular needle behind the work - after this row the sts from the top peak have been "locked" in on another needle behind the work (= 136 sts knit and 136 sts on the second needle). 
Knit a total of 6 rows of stockinette st, then knit 1 row where the sts from the top peak (on second needle) are knit together with sts from the rolling edge (K 2 tog across, with 1 st from each needle) = 136 sts on the needles. Knit 3 rows of stockinette st, decreasing 4 sts evenly distributed on the row = 132 sts. 
Now knit 1 rose Pattern, but start the chart from the top and knit down. After the rose knit 6 rows dark purple, then purl 1 row (for the folding edge), then knit 30 rows of stockinette st and bind off. Fold the edge over double against the wrong side and sew the edge in the same row as the rolling edge.








All measurements in charts are in cm.
= dark purple
= green
= blue violet
= yellow-green
= grass green







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